Doron' s 10 day experience on Princess Nayeli

The journey started in our Amsterdam office. One cold and gray morning, Roy mentioned a friend he has. “ We know each other from Kindergarten “ he made sure to add, each time the name Eyal was brought up.
In the next few days we stopped working and sailed on the web. Looking for the places we will explore during the upcoming sail. I am not talking about a search we made just a few days before sailing, but few long weeks. Probably while the new boat was still in its Italian made factory, we were already on it sailing. With full mind a sole.
Few days before our flight to Croatia a possible cancellation was hinted. Roy’s position at our company came into a serious risk and only a false warning cancellation relaxed us all.

Our first day in Dubrovnik, began with a visit to the old city center. Nice historical monuments, but tons of tourists. The first meeting with Eyal, took place in the city. Surrounded with family members, but equipped with small yellow radio device, things became bit more serious. We smelled the ocean.

Good sailing must start with massive food and drinks shopping. Though basic stuff was already loaded well in the boat, we visited local place and bought great deal of stuff. 5 on the boat, Gili to join and already lots and lots of food. Men on a sailing adventure are usually very creative with all that has to do with food. Great menus were structured between the shelves of that local supermarket.

During the up coming day the team, still counted 5 had to deal with very serious decisions. Some as - shall we eat now or in ½ hour ? another was shall we sail to this bay or the next one. Or where will we pick Gili ? in this harbor or the next one. As prices of public transportation at Croatia, mainly taxies, are determined by the face of the tourist, without any connection to distances, we felt like moving ahead and sail.
Gili will pick us instead of us picking Gili.

Cavtat, was the place. Sailing there was short in calm sea. As we felt lucky and fully loaded with all we need we anchored at the small bay of the village. Just in front of a tiny harbor. Basic plan was to stop there for the night and pick up Gili the next evening. Than comes Antonio…

Very early in the next day, small motor boat with one guy on it. Wearing white clothing and a little black side bag. “ I was calling you the whole day yesterday, but you didn’t hear “ Antonio screamed. “ You must pay here also when you anchor in the bay “ added. “ It’s a beautiful place and everybody must pay, so do you “ For our question “ How much “ he replied with no thinking “ You will see “ .

Later in the day, watching the very high number of coming boats we took a place at the dock. Each one of us found something to do. Me on the BB, Roy at the kitchen, Eyal found remote connection to one of the restaurants….all went well.

Then came Gili.

Forgot to mention, but Eyal’s birthday took place on the same exact day while Local village festival took place. We have celebrated it from the boat. Loud music, Good Cherry brandy and very high spirit of the team formulated a good birthday party. Late at night the plan to leave early to the next destination became reality.. Monte Negro. Custom and police exit at Cavtat and sailing with light wind in a very gray morning, direction Monte Negro.

Just before leaving Croatia we discussed potential complications we may face there.. Worries that found later as totally false. The coming few days at MN were just beautiful. Great sea. Great accommodation. Easy and comfortable.

Gray sky and light rain accommodated us during the whole sail from Cavtat direction south. Temperature was rather warm so no real irritation. We have decided earlier to visit 2 places there. The deep and long bay of Kotor and the harbor of Bar. Entering the bay of Kotor was real fun. High mountains of the side of the bay escorted us while sailing there. MN is known for its high and stiff mountains, some covered with sort of black color pine trees. Some of the mountains are so high, their tops are totally bold with no plantation at all. Old castles remains structured of the 2 sides of entering the large bay. Some more will escort us while entering deep into it. With the foggy view and light drizzle falls it all looked bit mysterious. In order to get warm, hot and spicy drinks are brought up. Fruits and snacks came along too. The city of Kotor looked magnificent already from distance. The high mountain above the city was decorated with old and heavy wall heading to old castles ruins on its heights. Entering MN, required us to stop at distanced custom and police dock. Paper work didn’t last too long. Proper place was found for the night stop and all were heading to tour in a near by small market and marina club. From first look the facility looked new. Short visit at the marina free shower place indicated 2 stand up jet showers. Those round cabins, containing some 10 jets, with the ability to spray a sailor from 10 different angels. Early plans to celebrate on long hot showers ended with a declaration of one of us, “there is no hot water “ Yelena, the hostess of the facility promised to fix the problem by 23:00. Eyal tried his luck at 22:00 and found a locked facility.
Asking for a restaurant, we were recommended to visit a place called Dobrovsky Dvori. Sound more as a name of a Russian philosopher than a fish place. In MN there are 2 types of taxies. Regular ones and Red ones. The second is to be used by tourists. Ordering 2 taxies, we were introduced to 2 young drivers. Both looked not older than 15 years old. After short drive, paying not more than EUR3 ( MN is probably the only place in our journey where we paid the real price of the taxi travel. In all other places we were cheated by all drivers… ) . The restaurant was found as very good. We ordered local food. Simple, good salads and fish. The size of the fish was exceptionally big and very tasty too.

Next morning we decided to climb up the mountain, along the old wall to the top castle. One of us had to stay and watch the boat. All were excited to shake their lazy bones and visit the historical sight. After a short but loud discussion of the team I realized nobody wants to stay and continuous discussion may break years of good relation. I immediately volunteered to stay. (…Well…maybe they didn’t shout…or discuss it loudly ….and maybe I also wanted a bit to stay … read a book….. you know what ???? OK !!! I DIDN’T WANT TO GO THERE….!!! )

The guys came back after 2 hours. They all looked tired but happy. The view of the mountain top is just great.
Shopping in the vegs market, visit to the supermarket and we were ready to sail to Bar. Our second and last stop at MN.

Sailing to Bar was easy and in calm sea. The city lays within the bay of Budva. On our way there we stopped by what looked as a blue cave. 3 volunteers rowed the dingy to search around and entered the cave. It was found as nothing to write home about and we continued in our way. The marina of Bar was rather empty with few foreign boats in it. Waiting to refuel the tanks with diesel, took about ½ hour. Topless lady swimmer escorted by strong north west wind left skipp all alone to fight nature. At the end we moored long side as all hands and eyes were stuck in the wrong direction.

Next morning, early in the day, ready for the long leg we left MN direction south. Greece, here we come. Leaving the bay of Budva, we were welcomed by strong wind. The boat sailed wonderfully fast. The silent of the sea, whistle of the wind and some Slivovica did its work. North west wind accommodated most of our day and the initial 30 hours journey shortened as we progressed. When possible and quite for long time, spinnaker was lifted. The speed of the boat touched 8 knots. 4-5 meals were served. Lots of fruits, drinks, and other specially made food by the creative chefs. As 12 miles distance from the coast line of Albania are mandated, we sailed deep into the see, up until only blue water surrounded us. The night was divided to 3 shifts and 3 teams of 2 member each took command. During the long day we saw on our way only few boats. As we made progress into the Greek territorial waters, more ferries crossed our way. The night was mainly calm with almost no wind. Early in the morning sails were lifted but after short time, put back in place. After about 20 hours we could see the north tiny island of Greece. Erikoussa. As we figured out its going to be a warm day and breakfast was in progress, we anchored in a small south bay of that Island. In about an hour, after a good meal and cold and refreshing swim we headed to Corfu island, to the Gouvia marina.

Gouvia marina is huge. Facilitated with hot showers ( …that offers cold water only ), shops, restaurants, bars and such. By the south part of the marina lays a small village offering big supermarket, shops and plenty of restaurants. This should be our home base for the next days with a few bay visits.

After loading the boat with fresh food, cleaning it, we headed the next morning to the group of small islands of Moutros. Lying by the main land. The islands were found as great surprise. Just a few boats in the area we anchored behind one of the island preparing for a night stop. There was a pressure by the guys to check out the dingy. For the question, “ what about fuel “ ?, Eyal replied “ you have petrol for an hour “

Roy and myself took the dinghy to tour around. After 2 minutes, the engine died on us. Roy, remembered his days form the army and ordered “ Row “ . Doron remembered his days from his army and replied “ you row “. Luckily a small motor boat, with 6 French guys was passing by. We asked them if they enjoy their vacation and explained them we do not enjoy ours. As member of the EU, Collaboration treaty was established and a rope handed to us. While singing French chansons, we were towed back to mother ship. The left crew ( “ you have petrol for an hour “ ) welcomed us with loud cheering up and clapping hands. Night there was just excellent.

Next morning thy guys felt like having Frappe. We sailed to a small harbor a bit north of our last night position and after short stop there, once all came to their satisfaction we headed back to Moutros. This time we anchored in the north side of the group of small islands. Dinner on Saturday night was royal. With a 2 course dinner, freshly cooked bread and self made cake. Roy at his best. Morning swim and back to Gouvia. On our way we stopped to swim at the near-by harbor bay and to view perfect water tank aircraft landing by our boat.

Gili left next morning. Yoel in the afternoon after the 5 of us spent most of the day at Corfu city. Dinner at George’s was tasty but nothing to compare to the dinners of the past 10 days, with the 6 of us around the table.

The 3 Dutch left today. Eyal is in the boat. The family arrives tomorrow…

Some pictures of those 10 days:

Princess Nayeli from Kotor to Corfu